🔗 Share this article

When curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.